My kind of town
Author Bob Dent has lived in the 'Pearl of the Danube' since 1986.
Why Budapest?
The "Pearl of the Danube" is an about-to-be rediscovered gem from the days of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. The riverside, city-centre views are some of the best in Europe.
Also unique are the many thermal baths, which justify its title of "spa city". It is the only European capital where you can taste a real gulyás, which in Hungary is more of a rich soup than a stew.
What do you miss when you are away?
The café scene, revived in the past decade; the mixture of everyday life amid the historic architecture of the city streets; going for a swim and then relaxing in a bar; and the endless opportunities for music appreciation, from excellent gypsy bands to classical concerts at the Liszt Academy.
What's the first thing you do when you return?
Head for the riverside to remind myself of the panorama and to re-experience its invigorating effect.
If I'm feeling low, a ride on a tram crossing Margaret Bridge and taking in the view is better than any tonic. Nearby are the old Lukács Baths, the hot water and steam rooms of which never fail to revitalise.
Where's the best place to stay?
Budapest's newest grand hotel, The Four Seasons (5-7 Roosevelt tér; 0036 1 268 6000; www.fourseasons.com/budapest; doubles from £155), which occupies the former Gresham Palace, one of the city's most attractive Art Nouveau structures. All the original façade decoration and colourful stained-glass windows have been meticulously restored.
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
The Café Centrál (9 Károlyi Mihály utca), in central Pest, has all the atmosphere of pre-war Budapest, and was one of the most important literary cafés of its day.
Today, the varied clientele includes foreigners enjoying a hearty breakfast, Hungarian editors correcting texts accompanied by their midday coffee, as well as evening drinkers and diners.
Where are your favourite places for lunch?
The étkezde (eatery) is a traditional Budapest establishment providing wholesome and inexpensive food for locals. Visitors might feel intimidated entering such small places, but they will find good food and a warm atmosphere.
I would recommend the Kisharang (17 Október 6 utca) in the city centre, and the Kádár (9 Klauzál tér), in the former Jewish quarter.
And for dinner?
The Ezüstponty (Silver Carp: 96 Németvölgyi útca; 319 1632) is an old-established restaurant on the Buda side of the Danube. Its extensive menu, with English translation, is mainly traditional Hungarian, including fish specialities.
Contrary to myth, as proved by this restaurant, Hungarian cuisine is not necessarily over-spicy, and vegetarians will not be disappointed.
An added attraction is the excellent gypsy music. Here or elsewhere, ask for something cigány (gypsy) and you will hear a genuine tune, melancholy or lively, as takes the fancy of the violinist.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
Most first-timers sample the Fishermen's Bastion, a look-out walkway on Castle Hill, behind the Gothic revival Matthias Church.
An interesting alternative would be the top of neighbouring Gellért Hill. It is higher and you get a better all-round perspective of the city. Among the baths, the large, Széchenyi neo-Baroque baths complex in the City Park is highly recommended.
The following have superb "must-see" interiors: Parliament, the Opera House (both with daily tours in English), the Great Synagogue (closed to visitors on Saturday) and St Stephen's Basilica, Budapest's largest church.
What should they avoid?
Being lured into inner-city bars and restaurants by attractive ladies preparing the ground for a financial sting, and enthusiastic waiters, anywhere, making recommendations before you've studied the menu or wine list.
Handbag or money belt?
Either, but be careful on public transport during busy hours, particularly the No 2 tram by the Danube and the bus leading up to Castle Hill.
Bus or taxi?
Both are good value by UK standards, so taxis are appealing. Calling one on a phone is cheaper than hailing on the street. Public transport is extensive, efficient and reliable.
What should I take home?
Plates, table-cloths and dolls with folk-art decoration; sausages; paprika powder; a bottle of pálinka, Hungary's fiery fruit brandy. All can be obtained in the central market (1-3 Vámház körút), itself an attractive late-19th-century building, worth visiting for its architecture and atmosphere.
• Bob Dent is the author of the Blue Guide to Budapest and has lived in the city since 1986
source: http://www.telegraph.co.uk
